Friday, April 27, 2012

Pueblo Abroad: Journal Entry #2


Part 2 – The Information Centre

Pressing onward through some of my reflections from the past weeks, I want to take a moment and remind you all that the following series of entries has its genesis from a journal of mine and that—for better or worse—you’ll have to accept them more as ramblings than as polished pieces of social and/or historical commentary. There will be contradictions and bad arguments and shifting perspectives. A friend emailed me this morning, concerned about my approach to collective memory with regard to the Holocaust; she seemed worried about my discussion of ‘understanding’ and the implications it has for those who did not directly experience the Holocaust (along with other important historical movements, etc.).

As someone interested in the arts (and, more narrowly, someone who [too infrequently] makes art of his own), the issue of experience is one I struggle with daily. Must we experience something in order to have an understanding of it? My friend wisely pointed out—and I will paraphrase and work off what she said—that memory is something crafted over time; we do forget and we craft narratives based that have been simplified and even altered. It is entirely possible to ‘understand’ those narratives; I can ‘understand’ the narrative of the Holocaust as it exists within film culture—from Life Is Beautiful to The Boy in the Striped Pajamas to Au Revoir les Enfants—but can I understand the Holocaust in the same way as that woman in Ben and Adam’s tour group who lived through it.

The easy answer is, of course not. But there are some difficult problems lurking beneath the surface of that answer and, for now, I’ll leave them be. (I’m frightened that I will lose the thread of this entire post if I go snatching for fish that I’m sure are there, but not so sure that I can catch.)

~

Beneath the ground level of Peter Eisenman’s impressive memorial, there is an Information Center. In terms of both exhibit and architecture, it provides an apt contrast to the memorial above. Although I used the term ‘exhibits,’ there were really no ‘exhibits’ to speak of. The walk through the center—consisting of 5 or 6 rooms in total—was entirely text, photographs, lighting, and audio installations. I won’t bother with a rundown of the content; you all know the crude outline of the Holocaust [for a long refresher, here’s the Wikipedia page LINK] and I couldn’t do the exceptionally researched and perceptive rendition given of the Center justice by butchering it here. Like the ‘stelae’ above, Eisenman and the curators continued the aesthetic of veiled symbolism.

‘Stelae,’ for those who were confused by that term in the last entry, are monuments that have been popular amongst a wide array of cultures, from the Maya through the Ming Dynasty in China. They were used as funerary markers, but they also functioned as commemorative or didactic texts. The ‘stelae’ constructed by Eisenman could be either funerary, commemorative, or didactic above ground, but below ground—where their imprint is seen in the ceiling of the Information Center—they became clearly funerary once I entered the second room of the center.

In that room, panels of lights—the same shape and size as the ‘stelae’ above and lined up directly with their granite brethren above—gave individual accounts of the Holocaust. In almost all the cases, these scraps of writings, which came largely from diaries, journals, and letters, were found on the bodies of deceased Jews. Here’s an example from Herman Kruk, whose journals have been published as a book, The Last Days of the Jerusalem of Lithuania, available through Yale University Press:

What is my life even worth if I remain alive? Whom to return to in my old hometown of Warsaw? For what and for whom do I carry on this whole pursuit of life, enduring, holding out—for what?

~

The curious thing about this room of lit panels is that, despite their being made of similar material to the floor, no one walks on them—mirroring the walking patterns of those who are walking above through the ‘stelae’ field. The light is somehow sacred and other and I see only one woman trod on the corner of a panel during my 15 minutes in the room. The light affects us in all kinds of ways. If there’s one face-value criticism that I might offer of the center, it’s that the badly lit rooms make all the text they offer extremely difficult to read. On reflection, though, I began to think that the lighting was part of the point.

These stories are hard to read, but the lighting choices allow the Information Center to reinforce that quality. After nearly 45 minutes in the rooms of the center, my eyes were tired and exhausted and literally aching for some sunlight. They’re not making it easy for us and I respect that. 

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